Nettle
CHEMISTRY
Cellulose (Plant)
ORIGIN
Europe, Himalayas, China, Japan
SUSTAINABILITY
Despite it's stinging properties, textile fibre made from this plant are safe to wear. Long fibres are harvested from the stalks of the plant as opposed to the irritable leaves, making them pliable, easily spun into yarn and strong, stronger than linen, making it a useful fibre for blending with weaker fibres like cotton.
Nettle grows wildly and uncontrollably making it highly available and renewable without much effort, cutting down on water, pesticides, chemicals, energy, machinery and pollution. All parts of the plant can be used across the food, and textile market. It is a good temperature regulator, and can be spun and woven according to seasons, keeping you warm in winter and cool in summer. Unlike hemp, the growth and cultivation of nettle doesn't face any legal issues.
Much of the nettle fabric made is processed by hand making it labour intensive. It's hand made element appreciates in quality and value.
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Corozo Nut from the Tagua Palm Tree
CHEMISTRY
Cellulose (Plant)
ORIGIN
Equatorial South America
SUSTAINABILITY
So much of the world's rainforest is being cut down for the short sighted purpose of economic progress, however there are specific indigenous trees that are valuable crops such as the Tagua Palm. These produce around fifteen spiny balls per year known as 'Mococha'. Each Mococha houses up to 1,800 nuts, also known as 'corozo' or 'vegetable ivory'.
Corozo is a sustainable solution to button making as the nuts are harvested year after year and only once the palm tree has matured. The Mococha naturally fall to the ground as they ripen without human intervention. The raw material is white and gooey inside, but is left to dry and harden before being cut and carved into buttons, chess pieces, jewellery etc.
The buttons we source derive from Ecuador, and are dyed in the UK. Their finish is somewhere between shiny and matt, subtly showing their natural grain. They are reasonably resistant to fading and do not scratch easily.
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Corn
CHEMISTRY
Cellulose (Plant)
ORIGIN
America, China
SUSTAINABILITY
Corn fibre is a by-product of the food industry. It is made by fermenting the plant sugars from corn/maize crop. A specific residue left over after the sugar fermentation process is used and chemically converted into a polylactide, a high-performance polymer. In other words, the fibre content of corn fabric comes from its extracted polylactide polymer component and not from the fibrous leafy exterior as some may assume.
While corn fibre comes from a natural source, it is transformed chemically, making it a type of man-made fabric, therefore is not 100% natural. There are positive and negative aspects of the fibre. While the growth of corn is renewable and can be managed sustainably, it can rely on the use of pesticides, and large amounts of water and land. However, corn uses approximately half the amount of energy as conventional or organic cotton to produce, and the fibre extraction process can be done in a closed-loop chemical system without the use of fossil fuel resources like synthetic fabrics.
When made into a fabric, corn is good at moisture management and low in odour retention. It is breathable and comfortable, and displays an elegant drape when worn. The versatile fibre can can be spun and woven into both light and heavyweight fabrics, finding the perfect balance between strength and flexibility. As well as being naturally flame retardant, corn dyes well, and has a strong resistance to UV light meaning it will not fade easily. Similar to cotton, it can be laundered using standard washing methods, and dries quickly without forming severe wrinkles.
Other advantages to corn fibre is the composability of its waste products, and the circular use of chemicals post production. Under the right conditions the complete cycle of production, consumption, re-use and disposal of corn fibre can be done without damaging the environment. By not depending on fossil fuels, corn can be grown and manufactured into a fibre and other by-products in a comparatively stable economy.
There remains some debate over defining the corn fabric and similar man-made fabrics from natural sources as 'eco-friendly', but there is significant acceptance by customers and manufacturers for it as being 'more sustainable' than many other fabrics. Any type of growth in environmental protection and fibre development of this kind is worth nurturing for future development.
Find further reading here
]]>Banana Stalk/Stem
CHEMISTRY
Cellulose (Plant)
ORIGIN
India, Brazil, Ecuador, China, Philippines, Indonesia.
SUSTAINABILITY
Banana fibre for textile use is mainly cultivated from the non-fruiting variety known as Abaca, or ‘Manila Hemp’, but is also harvested from fruiting plants by farmers looking to reduce waste and increase income. Even still, most banana fibre goes to waste as the demand for it isn’t there yet.
The banana plant is a relatively low impact plant, the stalks renew themselves, and requires little water and fertiliser to grow. Like other bast fibres (linen and hemp), the banana fibre is collected from the outer cell layer or the plant’s stem. It is a very slow and manual process in comparison to other harvested crops. The stalks take up to 24 months to grow and are left to soak in local rivers to soften and allow for the long staple fibres to be teased out, which is known as retting and scraping.
The combination of coarse and fine soft fibres can be spun into a mono material or blended with other raw fibres to enhance its quality, and introduce new textures and attributes. Banana fibre is naturally heat resistant and is exceptionally strong, especially once spun and woven with other fibres.
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Cotton Linter
CHEMISTRY
Cellulose (Plant)
FAMILY
Rayon
ORIGIN
China, Japan
SUSTAINABILITY
Cupro is a branded product by Asahi Kasei (Japan) better know as Bemberg™. Cupro falls under the umbrella of rayon fibres. It is a semi-synthetic man-made regenerated cellulose fibre made from pre-consumer cotton waste. The fine linter (short downy fibre that enfolds and protects the cotton seed) is a waste product of cotton production which is extracted, dissolved, and transformed into a filament fibre that is woven into a soft, silk-like fabric. It is light, breathable and luxurious to wear. Cupro made by Bemberg™ is almost a 100% zero waste emissions fibre, with any unusable fibre being used for power generation.
Further reading here
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Goat's inner fleece
CHEMISTRY
Protein (Animal)
ORIGIN
Mongolia, Inner Mongolia (China), Nepal, Kashmir, Afghanistan, Iran, Turkey, Kyrgyzstan
SUSTAINABILITY
Cashmere is probably best known as one most luxurious fibre with special characteristics of fineness, softness and warmth. Cashmere is the extremely fine inner fleece from goats that is stimulated by the freezing cold and high altitude environments where they are reared. The fibres measure eight to ten microns in width, making them around 10 times finer than human hair and eight times warmer than sheep's wool. However, in recent decades as a direct result of fast fashion culture, cashmere has become less of a luxury fibre, and more of a commodity. To meet the demand, herds have grown four times what they were thirty years ago.
In addition, the warming of the earth caused by climate change is producing greater volumes of snow in the regions where goats graze. This has resulted in a significant shortage of food. And even with the increase of snow, the winters are getting warmer, which reduces the need for the goats to grow their cashmere wool in the quality and quantity that many rely on for their livelihoods.
A combination of these factors has resulted in many fashion houses blending cashmere wool with less sustainable raw materials which drives down quality, price and the overarching value of this incredible fibre. Efforts are being made by the Chinese government to improve pastures for grazing in an effort to allow for sustainable practices to continue in the future.
There is no certification label that guarantees a cashmere product is ethical.
Please research where your cashmere has come from. A general rule of thumb is if its cheap it's probably not sustainable. And if its expensive, make sure you're not being taken for a fast fashion fool.
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Cotton Boll
CHEMISTRY
Cellulose (Plant)
ORIGIN
India, Turkey, Egypt, China, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, USA, Brazil
SUSTAINABILITY
Cotton is one of the most common and most used fabrics globally. The natural cellulose fibre comes from the white boll of the plant. It is light and breathable which makes it a popular wardrobe staple. However, growing cotton is problematic, as it is one of the thirstiest and most chemical-invasive crops to grow. It requires a lot of pesticides, therefore has a negative impact on the environment and those that grow it as a result. Organic cotton is a more sustainable alternative. It aims to minimise the environmental impact during production process by removing as many harmful pesticides and other chemicals as possible. The only drawback to organic cotton is that can use more water to grow than conventional cotton. GOTS-certified cotton ensures high standards in production.
Recycled cotton is proven to be even more environmentally friendly than organic cotton. It is made using post-industrial and post-consumer cotton waste. It has the potential to help reduce water and energy consumption, as well as keep cotton clothes out of landfill – hence why it is considered one of the most sustainable fibres on the market.
Learn more about cotton from the Cotton Trade Association here
Learn more about Genetically Modified cotton and it's consequences here
It is also worth being aware that recent reports state that 85% of China's conventional cotton can now be traced to forced labour detention camps of Uighur and other minority peoples. This accounts for one fifth of cottons global supply chain. Buying fully traceable organic cotton ensures that you are not supporting illegal working conditions of others.
Read more cotton in China here
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Flax
CHEMISTRY
Cellulose (Plant)
ORIGIN
Western Europe, China, India, USA
SUSTAINABILITY
Linen has been grown for centuries, derived from the versatile flax crop. Linen requires minimal water and pesticides and will grow in poor-quality soil. Every part of the flax plant is used, nothing goes to waste. Linen is fully biodegradable (undyed), strong, naturally moth resistant, antibacterial, and hypoallergenic. It is also light and can withstand high temperatures, absorbing moisture without holding bacteria. It gets softer the more you wear and wash it making it a much-loved sustainable staple in your wardrobe.
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Hemp - a variety of Cannabis Sativa
CHEMISTRY
Cellulose (Plant)
ORIGIN
France, Spain, Austria, Russia, Australia, China, Canada, USA
SUSTAINABILITY
Hemp is extremely versatile, as it is also used in the food, building and cosmetic industries. Hemp is grown all around the world, a densely grown plant that wins the war on any competing plants. This means harsh chemical herbicides aren’t necessary. It requires little water and naturally fertilises the soil it grows in by returning 60-70% of the nutrients it borrows to grow. Hemp is one of the oldest fabrics in the world, and can be worn throughout the year, keeping you cool in the summer, and warm in the winter. It gets softer the more you wear and wash it making it a much-loved sustainable staple in your wardrobe.
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Bamboo
CHEMISTRY
Cellulose (Plant)
ORIGIN
China, Japan, Australia, Sub-Saharan Africa, South America
SUSTAINABILITY
There is a general misconception that bamboo is the answer to sustainable textiles however, there are hidden factors to consider. Bamboo as a crop can be sustainable as it is fast-growing, requiring no fertiliser or pesticides. It is 100% biodegradable, anti-fungal and antibacterial. It self-regenerates from its own roots therefore, doesn’t need to be replanted which also means less labour. However, when it comes to producing bamboo as a textile it is much less sustainable if not made organically.
95% of the bamboo on the market blended with viscose (viscose is a regenerated cellulose fibre made from wood pulp - see EcoVero™). Harsh chemicals such as sodium hydroxide, sulfuric acid and carbon disulphide are used which are incredibly harmful to living creatures and the environment. Not only does the production harm factory workers but pollutes the air and infects water systems by releasing bi-products that are not disposed of as hazardous waste.
Organic bamboo is super soft, and has a beautiful weight and drape. It is breathable and moisture wicking, keeping you warm in the winter and cool in the summer.
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Sheep's fleece
CHEMISTRY
Protein (Animal)
ORIGIN
Australia, New Zealand, China, Turkey, Iran, USA, Argentina, South Africa, UK
SUSTAINABILITY
Wool is a protein fibre made from keratin, just like our hair. Wool can be worn all year round, especially in Scotland, as it has the natural ability to help regulate our body temperature. Worn next to the skin, its hygroscopic nature continues to react with our fluctuating temperature, helping us to feel comfortable on both warm and cold days.
Wool has a combination of sustainable and non-sustainable attributes. It is rapidly renewable, biodegradable, recyclable, can be produced organically and is a by-product of the food industry. There are new wool traceability standards and animal welfare standards to track its production. It is a high-performance, long-lasting fibre which is naturally water repellent, and flame-resistant.
However, sheep also contribute to climate changing levels of methane in the atmosphere, yet, their dung contributes to topsoil regeneration which aids the sinking of atmospheric carbon. The laundering of the natural lanolin (oil) content in wool production also contributes significantly to greenhouse gas emissions in the supply chain. Yet, once in a wearable condition, wool is self-cleaning and requires little laundering at low temperatures during its lifespan as a garment.
Wool is one of those fibres that the individual must weigh up the pros and cons for themselves.
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Silk filament from the cocoon of the Bombyx mori - mulberry silkworm or mulberry silk moth
CHEMISTRY
Protein (Animal)
ORIGIN
India
SUSTAINABILITY
Peace silk, also known as Ahimsa silk is the vegan, humane way of cultivating silk fibres. Unlike conventional silk, the pupa which forms the cocoon is allowed to hatch, leaving a hole in the cocoon as it makes its way out as a moth. This requires an extra ten days in the process, as opposed to fifteen minutes for inhumane silk. The hole in the continuous silk filament cocoon causes it to be broken into countless pieces, and only one sixth of peace silk fibre can be yielded for further processing. In terms of economics, peace silk is considerably more expensive than conventional silk due to its labour intensive and low yielding properties.
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Wood pulp from eucalyptus, oak, birch
CHEMISTRY
Cellulose (Plant)
FAMILY
Rayon
ORIGIN
USA, Europe, China
SUSTAINABILITY
Tencel™ is the branded version of Lyocell™. It is often considered the most sustainable way to produce regenerated cellulose fabrics as it focuses on closed-loop production and uses less resource-intensive processes. It is created by responsibly dissolving wood pulp from sustainable plantations by the Austrian company Lenzing AG. The chemicals used to produce the fibre are also managed in a closed-loop system. This means the chemicals or solvents are recycled which reduces hazardous waste entering our waterways. Tencel™ is 50% more absorbent than cotton. It is water-wicking, anti-bacterial, breathable and soft, and requires less energy to produce than most fibres.
Modal, also made by Lenzing™ is a close relative of Tencel™ with similar processes and an equally low ecological impact. Modal fabrics are generally lighter in weight and drape and even softer to touch.
These regenerated cellulose fabrics fall under the umbrella of rayon fibres/fabrics, but not all rayon is made sustainably. We only source our regenerated cellulose fabrics from those that Lenzing™ produce via third parties to ensure high ethical standards.
Further reading here
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Wood-pulp from fast growing and regenerative trees such as beech, pine, eucalyptus, bamboo, soy and sugar cane.
CHEMISTRY
Cellulose (Plant)
FAMILY
Rayon
ORIGIN
USA, Europe, China
SUSTAINABILITY
Conventional viscose is a semi-synthetic fibre made from the cellulose content of trees derived from endangered forests. Deforestation removes vital oxygen from the atmosphere, resulting in disproportionate levels of carbon dioxide which is directly linked to climate change. Deforestation also endangers the natural habitat of our plants and animals.
Essentially Eco-Vero™ is a sustainable alternative produced by Lenzing™ - leading manufacturers of sustainable rayon fibres including Tencel™. It is sourced from certified and sustainably planted forests. The conservation efforts of these forests focus on mitigating climate change through ongoing reforestation.
EcoVero™ is processed in a closed-loop system ensuring chemicals that are used to produce the fibre filaments are reused time and time again and do not pollute our waterways.
Further reading here
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Waste Nylon
CHEMISTRY
Thermoplastic
ORIGIN
Italy, Slovenia
SUSTAINABILITY
Econyl™ is a fibre made from 100% recycled nylon waste such as industrial plastic, waste fabric, fishing nets etc. Made in Italy by Aquafil. Econyl™ is made in a closed-loop system, using less water and creates less waste than the similar nylon production. While more sustainable than nylon, Econyl™ can still shed plastic micro-particles that can end up in our water systems and oceans, therefore if choosing to buy/wear Econyl™, it is best to wash as little as possible, or wash in a Guppy Bag™ (the patented solution that filters out tiny micro-fibres released from textiles during washing for you to dispose of responsibly).
Further reading here
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Pineapple
CHEMISTRY
Cellulose (Plant)
ORIGIN
Philippines
SUSTAINABILITY
Piñatex™ is a vegan leather alternative manufactured by Ananas Anam. It is made from pineapple leaf fibre, a bi-product of the food supply chain, therefore reduces waste. The development and production of Piñatex™ provides additional income to the farming communities that grow the fruit.
Further reading here
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