Due to its more complex construction to weft knitting, warp knitting is almost exclusively done by machine rather than by hand. The two most common warp-knit fabrics are tricot and raschel.
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]]>Stocking/Plain stitch (diagram) is the most common form of knitted stitch used and it was first discovered in artefacts from as early as the 11th Century, not to be confused with similar looking textile techniques like crochet, nalbinding and sprang. Many other knitting stitches can be used in weft knitting such as Purl, and Double Knitting. Various combinations of these stitches paired with any number of yarn weights and colours are used to form a vast array of knitting patterns such as such as Cable, Fair Isle and Aran to name but a few.
Weft knitting has since been adapted to be made on machines whereby the construction is essentially the same albeit a little more complex but is a much faster process. While it was invented to speed up the manufacturing process, it also allowed for patterns to be made more uniform for mass production, and also meant that less mistakes were made as machines are designed to prevent dropped stitches causing ladders. Nowadays many of the knitted garments that are mass produced are produced in factories using knitting machines. Weft knitting by hand or machine can be constructed flat or in the round.
Types of Weft knitting include Jersey, Double Knit, Circular Knitting, Fair Isle and Cable knit. All of these knits are generally produced using a knitting machine as a finer gauge, more delicate fabric can be produced but hand knitting is still used, mainly as a hobby due to the investment of time needed.
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]]>This particular diagram shows a 4:1 weft-float satin weave; the weft yarn floats over four warp yarns, under one, and back over four. The point at which the weft is secured under a warp must be set into the weave at a diagonal, but this will always go unnoticed due to the long floating yarns which glide over the surface of the fabric.
Satin weave can be identified as having a contrasting front and back, the front will be smooth and lustrous, and the back will be rough and dull in comparison.
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]]>Herringbone is constructed into regular vertical columns across the width of the fabric creating both subtle stripe and zigzag pattern throughout. It is most commonly woven using wool, but essentially can be woven from anything, and is mostly used for suiting and outerwear.
Herringbone weave gets its name from the herring fish as it closely resembles the arrangement of its bone structure or skeleton.
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]]>Twill weave is used to make hardwearing fabrics such as denim and gabardine. The diagonal rib helps to give it firm but smooth drape, as well as a discrete texture that helps to disguise marks or stains on the fabric should they appear.
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This two-sided weave structure of peaks and valleys is most commonly made from cotton and widely used for bed linen, sleepwear and summer clothing as it helps to regulate body temperature due to its reduced surface contact with the skin. For the same reason, it is also highly absorbent, and often used as towelling, as it is highly efficient at drawing moisture away from the body. Its relatively loose weave structure means also means its flexible and is fast to dry.
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]]>This basket weave shows a '2:2' ratio or '2-count' of crossing yarns: two wefts weaving under and over two warps, and so on. Monks Cloth is an example of a basket weave, a 100% cotton canvas used for needle punch embroidery using a 12:12, or 12-count weave.
Other forms of basket weaving can be seen in baskets, of course, but it's also used widely for hats, bags, sandals and furniture.
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The selvedge (weft edge) of a fabric is stable and will not fray unless cut, unlike the warp edge. Sometimes it is woven using finer yarn which after a fabric is washed can appear tight, and restrictive of the main body of fabric, and therefore is often cut away.
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There are two twist directions, termed 'S' and 'Z' twist. S-twist yarns are spun clockwise, and Z-twist are spun anti-clockwise. But the easiest way to determine which one is which is to visualise the letters 'S' and 'Z' as shown in the diagram.
Woven and knitted fabrics will often require a stronger yarn than a single twist yarn to construct a durable fabric. This is where 'plying' the yarn becomes necessary. Plying is the twisting together of two or more 'S' and 'Z' twist yarns. The individual yarns must be twisted in the same direction before being plyed/twisted in the opposite direction. For example, two or more S-twist yarns are plyed together in a Z-twist direction or vice versa before being woven or knitted into a fabric. Plying in the opposite direction of the twist balances out the yarn to avoid over twisting and knotting.
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